When buying from a Breeder, what should you expect?
On the visit, what to expect ?
So you have decided that a sugar glider may be the right pet for you. Breeders love to meet potential owners and their families. Be prepared to stay a while, as a normal visit can last 2 hours or more. Make a list of any questions that you have. While you are there, you can meet and handle some of the gliders, as well as learn what it takes to be a good glider parent. Most people come to knowing little about these wonderful animals however they leave there with a great amount of knowledge to decide if this is the right pet for them. We don’t think you should rush your in making your decision, and encourage you to think everything over.
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Before your new addition comes home, what to expect ?
You have done your research, and decided that a sugar glider is the right pet for you. Now, you will need to do a little shopping. Be sure that you have everything you need before your little ones come home, this will make the home coming day run a lot smoother and less stressful for everyone.
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Cage - the bigger the better, 1/2 inch bar spacing, tall is better than long. Be sure that all materials used for the cage are safe for sugar gliders.
Sleeping quarters - They like it warm and dark. Examples are sleeping pouches and/or nest boxes
Diet and Supplements - this will vary diet as to the diet you choose, research your diet carefully and make a list of everything needed.
Water bottle - a hamster water bottle works great.
Food Dishes - some use paper plates with igloos covering them to protect the cage from huge food fights as well as keeping waste out of the food. Other ideas are hanging bird dishes, heavy ashtrays, or heavy small animal dishes.
Bedding - examples are white paper towels, corn cob bedding, fleece, carefresh, breeder celect or newspaper (if the glider has a minimum of 3 inches of clearance and can not reach the newspaper)
Wheel - Wheel are essential for sugar gliders because they need exercise to maintain their bone health. Wodent Wheel are recommended for sugar gliders.
Toys - gliders love toys! Cat toys, bird toys, hamster toys, even some infant toys. Check to be sure they are safe for your gliders before giving them any new toy.
Vet - A knowledgeable vet should be located before you bring your glider home. Not all vets treat sugar gliders.
Branches and Perches - an absolute must for any gliders habitat. If using branches from the outside be sure they are safe, sterilize, and not treated with chemicals.
Bonding Pouch - this will greatly help in bonding and travel with your glider.
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Before you bring your glider home, be sure that you are prepared. Make sure you have all the items on the above list. The glider’s cage should be set up complete with feeding station, full water bottle, warm sleeping quarters, and a few toys. At this point, don’t overwhelm the cage with toys, as you don’t want a lot of toys to distract the sugar gliders from wanting to interact with you. You can slowly add more toys as the bonding progresses. Prepare your gliders food the day before, and make a list of questions to ask your breeder. Most breeders encourage you to make bonding visits, or the use of scent patches with your glider before it come home. This will help the glider become familiar with you, and help in bonding later.
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Picking up your glider, what to expect ?
The big day is finally here. You will need a special carrying pouch for your glider, as some of us as breeder do not provide one for you. If you are making a journey of more than 2 hours you may want to provide some treats [dried fruit, yogurt drops] for the ride home. Make sure you bring your list of questions with you, as well as our phone number and directions in case you get lost. Upon your arrival, we will go over any questions or concerns that you have. There is also some paperwork that we will need to fill out. Your balance, if any, will be due at this time. We will then get out your new glider, and prepare them for the ride home.
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First Week home, what to expect ?
The first few days home will be both stressful and exciting. It is important to note that every glider has a different personality so it is almost impossible to know how each individual will react. Some gliders will take to their new homes and owners right away, with no signs of stress or fear. However, most will show some signs of fear and discomfort when they are first brought home. Leaving a sugar glider alone in the cage for 1-3 days to allow it to adjust to the new home is recommended if the glider is showing signs of moderate to severe stress. During this time, talk softly through the bars of the cage, let your glider come to you. Chasing a sugar glider around the cage to catch it will create more stress to the animal. Sugar gliders are wild, exotic animals, and are prone to stress.
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Some signs of stress may include :-
Barking or crying - This is the most common, and generally happens late at night when the joey is left alone. It is trying to call out for it’s parents or siblings. It is important that you calm them with attention if at all possible, even if it is just speaking softly to them. If the glider is alone, providing a small stuffed animal or scent patches that smell like the parents is recommended.
Crabbing, or becoming pouch protective - This is normal and common, especially the first week or so in their new home. Their sleeping area is what they consider to be safe and familiar. They are still scared and trying to adjust to their new surroundings. Taking their pouch out of the cage, and laying it open in your lap will allow them to explore their surroundings on their own terms. Generally, if you give them a little while this behavior will lessen as they become familiar with their new home.
Lunging, nipping or biting - It is rare that a sugar glider will get this frightened on it’s arrival home. However if it does happen, it is important that you show them love, and don’t act afraid of their advances. If they get what they are trying to accomplish by doing it, they will continue. Be sure to spend lots of time with these gliders. Carrying these gliders in bonding pouches and talking softly will help.
Not eating - When a sugar glider becomes stressed, it may not eat, or eat very little. If your sugar glider doesn’t eat well the first 2 nights, do not worry this is normal. However if it lasts longer than 3 days, contact your vet.
Soft Stools - Soft stools can occur when a sugar glider is over stressed and bacteria in the digestive track becomes unbalanced. Often times this clears up in a day or so. Feeding a teaspoon of yogurt may help get the sugar glider back on track. If at any time the sugar glider becomes dehydrated, has diarrhea, or if stools do not return to normal within 24-48 hours, get the sugar glider to the vet immediately!
Skunking - This is a defense tactic for sugar gliders to avoid becoming pray to other animals. If a sugar glider is startled it will let of a burst of odor from it’s anus. It does have a similar smell to that of a skunk but milder. The smell is brief and doesn’t cling like a skunks odor.
Common New Owner Questions :-
Q. Do sugar gliders bite?
A. Yes, sugar gliders can bite. Anything with teeth can bite, but tame and bonded gliders rarely do. A sugar glider bite feels similar to that of a hamster bite, although they don’t always break skin. Sometimes a tame and bonded glider may bite out of illness or if it is startled. Unbonded sugar gliders will bite out of fear. If your sugar glider does bite, it is important to take the bite. If the sugar glider learns that it can archive what it wants by biting, it will continue the behavior.
A less painful type of “bite” is called a nip. In this case the sugar glider doesn’t break the skin, but creates more of a pinch. This is often times a warning of its unhappiness or discomfort. Sugar gliders may nip you if they smell food or something they think is food on your hands (ex. lotions).
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Tips to avoid being bit :-
Avoid grabbing a sugar glider from above. This will create a defensive response, and may result in a bite. Instead, try coxing the sugar glider on the back of your hand, or scooping it up gently from below.
Some sugar gliders are “pouch protective” in these cases, the sugar glider will feel the need to protect their nest. Gently coax the sugar glider out of the pouch by working him up to the top of the pouch.
Offer the back of your hand instead of the palm. Most animals will find this less intimidating. Not to mention, taking a bite on the back of the hand is less painful than on the palm.
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Q. Do sugar gliders need immunization (shots)?
A. No. Sugar gliders are not required or recommended for immunization shots at this time. The lower body temperature keeps the glider safe from many illnesses that would other wise affect placental mammals. One example is rabies. If a sugar glider came into contact with rabies the glider could not get or spread the disease. Sugar gliders are marsupials, as such their body temperature is lower than that of placental mammals.. Of coarse this does not mean that sugar gliders unable to get sick. There are still many diseases sugar gliders are susceptible to.
Q. Do sugar gliders make a lot of noise?
A. Sugar gliders are nocturnal animals. They are extremely active, vocal, and playful at night. Often times a variety of vocalizations can be heard, from barking (similar to a small puppy barking), crabbing, to chattering and hissing. Toys and wheels make noise. Most people, especially light sleepers, should not house sugar gliders in their bedroom. For the most part, yes, they can be loud, however, they aren’t usually loud enough to keep the neighbors up.
Q. Do sugar gliders teeth keep growing?
A. NO!! Sugar gliders are NOT rodents, they are marsupial possums. A sugar gliders teeth should never be trimmed or floated.
Q. My sugar glider doesn’t seem to drink a lot of water. Should I be worried?
A. Sugar gliders receive most of their “water” from the foods they consume. This is why dry pellet diets are not recommended as a healthy diet. Fresh water should always be offered. If you are concerned about dehydration, try tenting the skin on the back of the sugar glider’s neck. If it goes back down immediately, there are no problems with dehydration. However, if the skin stays tented or goes down slowly, the glider is dehydrated. Often times offering a small amount of juice, glideraide, or a 50/50 mixture of Pedialyte and water will help a dehydrated sugar glider. Sugar gliders can hide illnesses well. If you have any reason to believe your sugar glider may be ill, take it to the vet as soon as possible.
Q. What is that bald spot on the head and chest of my sugar glider?
A. The “bald spot” on the head, and chest are caused by active scent glands secreting oils. Intact males will rub their chest, head, and anus on their cage, colony members, and other objects, to mark what is “theirs”. Males that are neutered will stop producing the oil that mats down the fur creating the “bald spots”. Over time, neutered males will completely loose their “bald spots”.
Q. What is that pink worm thing coming out of my sugar gliders anus??
A. This is a males penis. The penis is pinkish in color, and is considered to be bifurcated. This means it is divided in two, but it is actually 2 separate shafts. New owners often mistake the penis for worms, or intestines. The penis is quite long, but is most often retracted . You may at times see your male with it out, cleaning it, and even showing it off.
Q. Can I take photos of my sugar glider with the flash?
A. Yes. You can safely take a few photos of your sugar glider using the flash. But, do not use flash point directly towards your sugar gliders' eyes. They may get frightened and it will harm their sensitive eyes. Try look for a bright spot or capture picture during daytime.